Page 48 - GRECIAN_SKG_04

The talk | xxxxxhe talk | An honorary Thessalonian
T
SKG

arose among the people of Thessa- set the tone in Thessaloniki now? Very few care about such things today. This is where the
loniki, the very first expression be- pioneers of intellectual and artistic expression used to thrive. Many creative minds, mu-
ing that of ‘Federation’ in the ear- sicians, singers, painters and writers have set sail for Athens, in pursuit of making a liv-
ly 20th century. Later there came ing and finding some recognition. Their hometown cannot keep them here –this is much
the tobacco workers’ strikes and the truer now than ever in the past. The state failed – or perhaps never even tried – to create
Lambrakis’ Peace Movement. I of- a second centre. Nor did Thessalonians make an effort to do so, nor its authorities or its
ten stand devotedly – as do other cit- people. Various obsessive fixations prevent the city from lifting its spirits.
izens, I believe – at the site of Grigo- At the port, a favourite place for the young and the cinephiles, opposite the Red Cross
ris’ heinous martyrdom and reflect building, gapes the skeleton of a mythical three-storey cabaret. Ladadika, the old whole-
on the decline of the city, the rea- sale olive-oil market, regenerated and bright, tops tourists’ gastronomic choices. Vardar
sons that made it regress and sink Square, the once infamous sinful district has turned into a ‘Chinatown’ community.
into a ‘Neo-Dark Age’ in recent dec- Around midnight teenagers adorn the courtyard wall and the tree alleys of Hagia Sophia
ades. It is said that, since 1964, up to church. The Rotunda, the old ‘Pantheon’ looms like a palimpsest open for all. Kamara-the
3,000 Lambrakis’ movement follow- old Roman Triumphant Arch remains, as it has always been, a meeting point for young
ers were active in the city, with a re- groups of friends and the excited expectation of romantic rendezvous.
naissance-like cultural activity, led by Thessaloniki is a poison for which there is no antidote. For me it is a life-sentence of am-
its Youth secretary, Chronis Missios. bivalence between attraction and repulsion. A mystical force keeps me prisoner and – as
Recently the city seems to be rising though I am under its spell – I will never abandon it.
in response to circumstances and to
be opening its wings to the world. Η Θεσσαλονίκη είναι μια πόλη που διάβηκε τους αιώνες πατώντας με το ένα πόδι
University students! Here is a robust στην Ανατολή και με τ’ άλλο στη Δύση. Τα δύο αυτά στοιχεία τα ταίριαξε και τα έδεσε
everlasting presence! The city pul- με την ιστορική της διαδρομή. Η πολυπρόσωπη εχθρική επιβουλή, οι αλλεπάλληλες
sates with their youth, marching to προσφυγιές, οι διωγμοί και οι εξανδραποδισμοί του ελληνικού πληθυσμού της
the beat of its own drum. Their ‘apo- τη χαρακτηρίζουν διαχρονικά. Ο πολυεθνικός χαρακτήρας των λαών που τη
litique’ attitude is scandalous at such συγκατοίκησαν της προσέδωσε έναν κοσμοπολίτικο χαρακτήρα με βαλκανικές και
times of economic and social cri- βορειομεσογειακές πινελιές.
sis, as they wander the University Η προσφυγιά του ’22 και της Ανταλλαγής την πλούτισε
Campus (erected after a sacrilegious με την εκλεκτή ποικιλία των Μικρασιατών και
abuse: the Jewish Cemeteries hav- Θρακιωτών Ρωμιών και των παραδόσεών τους, που της
ing been torn down), or around the πρόσθεσαν ένα πιο λαϊκό και σεβνταλίδικο χρώμα.
various fashionable water holes that Οι μεγαλύτεροι απ’ τους κατοίκους της πρόλαβαν να
mould new ways of life. In the past γευτούν και κάτι από το διαπολιτισμικό χαρμάνι, που
it was the City Wall District, more έχτισε την αστική ζωή και του λαϊκούς μύθους της.
recently Valaoritou District, and Θυμάμαι να δοκιμάζω με απορία κερασμένα καφετιά
just yesterday Olympou Street. Yet, αυγά, βρασμένα με κρεμμύδια, κατά την πατροπαράδοτη
the young seem to have no inter- ισπανοεβραϊκή συνταγή, έξω απ’ το Γιαχουντί χαμάμ,
est in cultural action or any intellec- στα Λουλουδάδικα, απέναντι από την αστική αγορά
tual event, although few take place, Μοδιάνο με τα φιγουράτα αετώματα στην πρόσοψη, Who is who
which are, nonetheless, notewor- όπου άκουσα, μαθητής του Δημοτικού, έναν Μπαγιάτη
thy. Nor do they love Thessaloniki’s Θεσσαλονικιό έμπορο να μιλάει σε τέσσερις γλώσσες: Thomas Korovinis is an
popular culture, which seems to be γαλλικά, αγγλικά, τούρκικα και σεφαραδίτικα, εκτός author and songwriter. He has
disappearing forever as far as ethos, απ’ τα δικά μας. Πού τέτοια αστικά μεγαλεία; Και πού authored 30 books. He is also
a composer and lyricist and
huy-way of life, speech manner or η ζωντάνια και η μπερμπαντιά που κελαηδούσε στις a singer of his own and other
entertainment goes. λαϊκές αγορές; Τι γινόταν στο Καπάνι! Πού οι μεικτές popular Greek songs. Many of
In any case, all the taverns and λαλιές, τα πονηρά πειράγματα, τα τρελά καλαμπούρια, οι his literary works have been
hangouts of our youth, in Ano Po- παροιμίες της προσφυγιάς, οι αυτοσχέδιοι στιχοπλόκοι, performed on stage. His novel
li-the Old City, in the city centre, the το μάτι το λιγωμένο που έσταζε ντούρο πόθο κι έβγαζε ‘O Gyros tou Thanatou’ [‘The
Merry Go Round of Death’]
port, Vardar Square or other parts φωτιά; Τώρα πια θα μας κάνουν, καθώς φαίνεται, was awarded the State Novel
of town, our music and all-night- να μην τολμάμε να κολλήσουμε κανέναν ερωτικά – Prize for 2011, while his
ers – a century old ‘popular music θα μας πηγαίνουν αυτόφωρο;– (θα χάσουμε και την ‘55’ was awarded the ‘Nikos
Themelis’ Prize in 2013.
epic’ – have disappeared. One won- «ερωτική» Θεσσαλονίκη!) και θα μας αναγκάσουν να μην In 1995 he was awarded
ders what the character of this city προσφωνούμε τους Αθίγγανους που τόσο αγαπήσαμε the Ipekçi Peace and
is; what are the currents, ideologies, Τσιγγάνους, αλλά Ρομά, κάποιοι που κατά βάθος τους Friendhsip Prize.
cultural spirit and personalities that μισούν και στα κρυφά τους λένε Γύφτους ή Κατσίβελους

48 GREC14N 2018-19 GREC14N 2018-19
48